TURIN EXHI BITI ON , 19 11. EXHIBIT OF' THE GRADFORD CHAMBER OF COMMERCE. Esposizione lnternaziona!e di Tori no, 191 I. ESPOSIZIONE COLLETTIVA DELLA CAMERA DI COMMERCIO DI BRADFORD. .JtI Exposition Universelle de T urin , 1911. EXPOSITION COLLECTIVE DE LA CHAMBRE DE COMMERCE DE BRADFORD. \Vm. 8:!H)' & Co., Ltd., l'rintcrs. Bradford.
CONTENTS , \ C11N(.'ISH 1-1 ISTOIH ' OF lJRADFOHD f ll:ESE:,.'.1'- 1>,\\' Tl lADE OF i31U DFO Hl> ~ •r ,\TISTJ CS l :-.1·1wnucT1t)N TO E:-: Mtl l l TS PI. AN l)I' EXIHIHT D ESCH IPTI O:'\' OF T A BLE,\U:'\ NOTES ON TIIE T YP ES O F C LOTHS .L'f SOMMARIO. r--:oTJZIE STOH IC li E SU 8JUDFOIW l 1. Co~t MEIH.: 10 D I J3RADF0HD UN PO' DI ST,\T I STI CA O SSE l (\',\Z I0X I GENEHA LI P!AXT,\ l )ELI.' EsPOSI ZlONI:: COLLETTJVA DI B 1uOFOHD I)m;CHI Z IO:\' I~ DEi QUAOl( I SCHI AHL\lENTI SU i Tli'J OJ TESSUTI ES P OST I TABLE DES MATIERES. NuTJCE I-IISTO HI QUE su n BllADFORD LI~ CO~l.'l l E IKE D E 8 1U DFOH D UN P EU DE STAT!fTl,QUE O us r::U VATI OKS GENEIULES PL,\N DE L'EXPOSITJON COL LECTIVE DE J3HADF01Hl EXPI.JC,\TI ON D ES TABLEAUX . , . ~BSl.:\1V ,H IO~S SUH LES TJSSUS EX POSES PAGE 3, 4 5, G 7-9 10 II 12- 29 30- :J2 PAG I N A 3, 4 5 , G 7- 9 10 II 12- 29 30- 32 PACE 3, 4 5, G 7- 9 JO II 12-W :m :J2
Concise His tory o i Bradford. ENGLAND has ror cent uries been a great woo l growing a nd wool manubct uring country. The Lord Cha11ccllor of En~l:,nd, who prc-s1Jcs over t he House of Lor.l s, sits 011 the "Woolsacl;." \V ill1arn of Normandy brouglit F lemish we avers to teach the E ngl ish how to nw l;c bcl!cr cloths. For :.i long time tile East and South a11d \Vl·st of E ngla11d , where tlic population \\":,s l:.1rgc, ,,ere the chief wool m:1n11f;1cturi11g distr icts. \ Vhcn the steam cn1-: i nc, t h e sp i nning mac hi 1u.: , :ind I he pO\\"cr loom :irrivcd, the less wealthy and more st r enuous people of the Nor.h c:1pturcd the trade hy Jcvcloring the f ac t ory syskm. T hey had abunJ an t soft water running i n bright streams from the Yorl1shirc hi lls, an.I unde r • m.::it h thei1· rcct was the best or coa l. So thC)' prospcrctl :i nd d rew t he popul :it ion fro m the Sou t h :i n tl tli c East a nd the \Vl·st, and a tt racted merchants a11tl money rrmn the n d1 1-bnsc:itic towns or Nort hl·1·11 Europe , and the y Notizie Storiche s u Bradford. DA alcuni scco\i l' l ngh il• term occupa un posto importantc ncll'i n• dustr ia l;1nicra cd C d:1 notarsi chc il scggio dcl prcsidc11tc dclla camera dci "Lordi" C chiamato "\Vool S:1d," cioC sacco d i l:in:1. Gut;I iel rno i I Conq u ista tore condussc scc:o dci tcssi to r i, iqwd i int rodusscroin lnghi ltcrra i i loro mctodo per• fczionato. L'cst, ii sud c l'uvcst <lei p:1csc, Juve gli ahitantier:1110 muncrosi c prospcri, for111al'ono pe r lu11go tempo la rcgionc prini.:ipalc pe r la f:1l>hric:azio11c d ei tcssuti. Gli abit a nli dcl 11ord :1\-cndo 111cno con101lit~1, 111a cssc1 1do pil1 atlivi, :i ccapar1":1ro110 s11bito i i eom1ncn:io dcllc Jrappcric , S\·ill1ppan• done b f:ihbric:azionc. Essi trovaronu dcll'ai.:qua IH1011a cJ in abhonJanza ncllc valbtc dcllo Yorl,shi1·c cJ ii suolo ricco J i gi:ici - menti d i Carbone . Cosi ii nonl prnspcrO alti rando 11011 solt:rnto la mano d'opcra dallc altrc parti dr l pacsc , 111:i a11.c hc i co111111c:l'cia11ti dcllc nr.:chc Notice Historique s ur Bradford. DEPU IS des siCr.:lcs I' Anglctc rrc occ u pe unc pla ce impor t:m t e dans l' i11dustric lainii.!rc e t chose r cmarquablc, o n :1ppellc mC n1c le s iCt;c du PrCsidc nt de la Chambrc des Lo rd s "wool s:.icl:," cc CJlii vc11t d ire " sac Jc lai nc . " Gui lla ume le Conqu<:ran t amcna des tisserands lbm:mds qui introJuis ircnt lcur mCthodc pcrfcctionnCc. L'Est, le Sud et l'Oucst du pays, don t Jes habitants Ctaic n t nomb r cux et p r·ospCrcs , for mai c n t pc11d:1 n t 10111-:tcmps la rCgion p r incip:ilc de b fabrication de ti ssus. L':wC11c111cnt d e I:, vapcur, des ml:ticrs :', Iller et ~1 tisscr di:pla<;a cctlc ind usl r ic unporla ntc. Les gen:, du Nord , moins aisCs et p lus actir:;, ac:c:1parCrcnt hic11lOt le commerce des dr:ipsc n dCvcloppanl la f ahricalion en gros. lls I rouv:ticnt dans lcs vallCcs <lu Yorl,shirc de l'c: 1u f:ivorablc et e n :1bonda nce , le sol Ctait ric hc e n giscrnc nts de char• hou. Ainsi le Nord prospi:ra, attirant 11011 sculcmcnt l.1 111:iin d'n:uvrc des :1utrcs.
Co nc ise Hi s t o ry o f Bra.dlord-conlinued. sent their fabrics all o ,·cr the world. E:1rly in t he last ccntu n · Bradford-which at t hat ti~e was a small and un• import:mt town with narrow crooked st rccts-bcg:rn to go ahead \'Cry fo s t, and quickly put it~clf in the front as the most important of all the towns engaged in the manufactu re and dis tribution of worsted fabrics and yarn s. The town has hccn practica lly rebuilt and enormously extended duri11g the last fifty r ears, and the enterprise of its cit izens has made it one of the most handsome cities in England. Noti z ie Sto riche s u Bra dford-con linuazione. c itt~L della " Ha nsc." Al principio <lei sccolo scorso , Bra<lrord allora pi ccola c itt:i in sig ni fica ntc con viuzzc tortuosc, in• comincib i n un col po solo a progrcdirc non tardando poi ad occuparc ii pri mo posto fr a le grandi c itt:1indust r ial! . Durante gli ultimi 50 anni la c iua C stab. rifabbri ca ta q uasi intcramcntc cstcn • dcndosi molto; e lo spiri to intraprendcntc d i qucsti c ittadini nc ha fa t ta u na dellc pill belle ci tt:J de! pacsc . {fe)?> <..7:? Le Co mme rce d e Bra dford- suite. parties du pa ys, mais auss i lcs nCgociants des riches villcsde la Hanse . Onavnit des dCbouc hCs dans les quatrc coins du mondc. Au commencement du siCcle passC , Bradford, alors pet ite ville ins ignif1an tc ? 1 ruellcs tortueuscs, commcn~:.i to ut d'un coup a progrcsscr, nc tardant pas :1 occupe,· le premie r rang p::mni Jes grandcs villcs industriclles. Pendant ks cinquante dern iCres annCes la vi ll c a CtC re b:itic presquc cntiCre• mcnt , to ut en s'C tcndant beauco up , et ]'esprit d'ent repr ise de scs citoycns e n a fait unc des plus be lles vi lles du pays.
Prese nt-day Trade of Bradford . Every market day there meet on the Br:idford Exclwngc hundreds (thc1·c arc 22:'i0 subscribers) of wool tn(' rCh:tnts, top mal,crs, combers, spi1111crs, d ye rs, m ;1nufacturcrs, machine ma l1crs- hundrc<ls of busi• ncss men not only from the immediate surrounding dis• t r ict, hut from France, Germany, Belgium , Russia, I taly, America, Australiawhereve r wool 1s wanted o r prod uced. VVhcre\'Cr wool is g rown, whatcve1· may be its brcc-d or quality, there is a custome r for it a lways in B radford. \Vithin fifteen m iles o f Bradford there arc madcc:irpcts, rugs, blankets, tapestries, army cloths, p lushes, \'Cl\'Cl'S, as well as the most cxtcnsi\'c variety o f woollen, worsted, cotton, a nd sill; Fabrics im~1ginablc, fo 1· hol h mc1l a nd women and for every di mate in t he wodd. I n th is sm:111 hit of co1111t r y- aho111 six hundred square miles there is a popul:1tion of a million and a quarter, more than one h al f of which is engaged in o r dc pc11dc11t 11po 11 tile wool indu stry . Ll'cds , 1-luddc rs· flc ld, l·lali f:o..:, l3atlcy, Dews• bur y, l(ciglilcy, l3ini,.:lcy, II Commercio di B r adford I.a horsa di 11r:n.lford conta '.! '!;)0 abhonati. In giorno di mcrcatu i;i \·ctlono centinai:1 tl'interess:1ti, negozi:rnti in bnc. pctti natori, (ibtori, tintori, fabbric,11Hi di tcssuti, fahhricanti di machine, csportator i. ccc. chc vcng:ono non soltanto da\le cittU c provincic circostanti, ma anchc dal Continentc, dall'Amcrica c dall' Aust ralia, si~. come com• pratori che venditor i. Qu:dunq uc sia la provcnicnza di una Jana cd ii suo gencrc, cssa trova ii suo imp1cgo in Bradford . In un r:1.ggio di quasi 25 l(m . si fa\Jb ricano dci tappcti, delle coperte di ogni generc, dcllc stoffc pe r mobili, panni militari, pcluchcs, vcll u t i ccc. in modo da :\\1Crc la p il1 gra ndc v;lrict:'i di stotTc di lana can.lab, pcttin:ila, di cotonc, di set a ccc. sia pe r abiti da donna chc da uomo, c per tutti i cli111i. Su di una piceola cstensionc di l000 l\m. quadrati vi C una popol:o:ionc di 1,250,000 abitanti, dci quali pil1 dclla me t:\, appartengono in un modo od w 1 a ltro :d \'illlh1stria la n ic ra. Pl'r non cit:1rc chc le citt:\ pil1 impo rtant i. vi sono Le Comme rce de Bradford. La I3oursc de Br;.alfmd complc c11viron '.!250 ahonnCs. Chaquc jour de marchC on y \'Oit des ccntaincs d'i n tC rcssCs: nCgocia nts en lainc, pcigncurs, fHateurs, tcinturiers, fabri• cants tic tissm;, fabrie:rnts de machines, espmtatcurs , etc., qui \'iennent non scu\cmcnt des \· illcs et vilbgcs en\'ironnan ts, mais aussi des pays du continent, et mCme de l'A111Criquc et de l'Australie,soit eommc achclcurs, soitcomme , ·cndcurs. Qucl lc quc soi t la provena nce d\me l.tinc.ou so n genre, clle t rouve son placement ~t Br:iMord . Dans un rayon tl'environ 25 km on fabriquc des tapis, des cou\'ertures de toutc cspi.:ce, des Ctoffes pour mcu blcs, des dr:.1ps mi Ii ta i rcs, des pcluchcs, dc:s lout rcs de soic (silk scalsk ins) des velours, :,insi quc la plus g ra nde v:1rii:tC imagi nable d 'CtolTei; de Ja inc cardCc et pcignCc, de coto11, de soie, etc., pour , ·Ctcmcnls de femme et t!'hummc et :1cl:tptl'.s pourtous lcs..:li111ats. Sur une petite CtcnJuc tic 1000 hm ..:a rrl·s ii y a une p o pulation de 1,250 ,000 d' habita n ts, dont plus de la mo il iC sont :iriliCs d\1nc
P rescnt•da y Tra d e o r Brad fo rd - conlinurJ. Ckcl,hc;1ton, H cck m o11d- \l ii,c. ,\ \ irficld :trc :di 1:trgc ·:1n<l irnpo r1:111t towns grouped :1round Or:idford wi t hin a circle or twcl\'c miles" (nineteen l, ilomctrcs) r:tdius. :111J :111 o r thl·m engaged in some br:mdi of t he grc.1t tcx!ilc imlustn· of 11 hich l3r:1dford is the ~ommerci:d :1nd di s - trihut i\ c cen tre. Br:1 d fo rd, :1 City of :100,000 inh a hi t :1 11 ls, h:1s indeed well been desc ribed :1s " Th e Wool Cen t re o f the V✓orl d . " Four- lir ths of the \\Ool manufact ures of Grc:11 Br it: 1i11 arc c:ll'ricd on in the \Ves t Riding of Yorkshire, ccnl red 1n :1ml :1rou11d 13r:1dfo rd. \Vool comes to B rad ford from Australi:1, New Zcal:111d, Sou th Afric:1, The River Pbte , P:.itagoni:1, The Fall; ]a n J I s la nds , f r om Morocco, T he Lcv:1nt, from Chin :t, Tliibct, l ndi :.1 , ;111J Manchun:i. The l·b i1· o f the Mok1ir Go:,t comes fro111 Asi:1 J\'li11or.and Cape Colony, of the Alp:ica from Peru and Chile, of the Cashmere from l ndi:1 :1nd T hibct, and of the · Camel from ma ny E:..iskrn bn~l s . An y or all o f these fibres c,11 he bought or sold 011 the Br:1dford E:..:change al :mr tim e: , and I3 raJforJ is Ihe only place in the world o f which th:1t c:111 be said. II Co m m e rcio di Brad iord- conlinuazione. in un raggio di 20 1(111. le c irt:'1di Leeds, l-luddersflc!d, H:tli f:ix, Batley, Dewsbury, l(eighley, Bingley, Cfecli - he:1ton, Hc e krnond\,·il,e, 1\lirfield, tuttc contribuenti per la loro p:,rle all'cnormc produzione tcss ile. I I \Vest Hiding: (c ircondario dcll'O\·cs t ) dcllo Yorl, - shi rc , ncl ce11tro de! qu:dc si tro,·:1 l3r:u!ford, racehiudc i 4/fi J ci lanif1ci d'lnghiltcr r :, . E dunquc con giusta ragionc chc 13r:1dro1·d si chiarna " II Ce ntro La ni ero d el Mo ndo. " L'Australi:1, la Nuov~1 Zcland:1, ii C:1po di huona Speranza, ii p:.icsc dclla Pl:1ta, la Pat~1gonia, le isolc ,\bluincs, i i 1\larocco, i p:1csi dd Lcvantc, la Cina, ii Tibet, le l ndic, l:.t ,\bnciu r ia; tutti questi p~1csi rnandano le lo ro la ne a Bradfo rd. Al di fuori delle lane propri a111c11tc dcttc, s'importa anc hc ogni son a <li pelo; come per c:s. Pelo di capra A 11 ,i.:ora detto ,\\oh.air, Asia i\ l in u rc , Capo; Pelo d' Alp~,g~1, Pc:rll , Chili; Pelo d i C:1chemir, India, T ibet; P elo <li Can1rncllo, PoJl' Si orient:di . O1·adford I: co11 osciuta donmque per il principalc rncrc:1to di tutti qucsti gencri. L e Comm e r ce de Bra dio rd- ,~ rre. fo~~•~ ou d'~ut re :'1 l' in d ustric l:11m_c rc. I our nc e itcr quc !cs vill_es les plus import:mtcs d_ y a a 20 km. de r:iron lcs , ·dies de Leeds, Huddcrs. fie ld, H ali f:1.-..:, IJ.ath:y, Dcwsbury, l(cighle r , Bingley, Clecl-hc:tton, Hc ckmo n d - wikc, J\lirflcl d , toutcs four. nissant lcur quotc-r::i r t a l 'Cnorme production textile. Le \Vest Ri ding (a rrondissemcnt de l'ouc:st) du Yorl,sh irc, :,u ce ntre duqucl SC trouYC B r~1dford, rcnfcrmc- lcs quat rc cin qui Cmes des f,tl u ique.,; l:i i11i Crcs de I' AnJ.!lctcrrc . C'cst done ~l justc raison q u'on a surnommC la \·ille d e Br:tdford. ' · Le Ce n tre La in ie r du Mond e." L'Austr:ilie, La Nom•elle ZC!andc, le Cap de n o nnc EspCr:incc, les pays de La Plat.1, la Patagon ie. lcs ilef" 1\.la louinc:s, le M:n·.ic, les p;1ys du Leva nt , la Chine, le Thi bet, Jes l rules , la Nbnchourie, tous ccs pa)S cnvoi~nt leurs laincs it Bradford . En de hors des l:tincs prop1·cmcnt dit cs on impol"tc :1uss i toute sortc de poils, tds quc: poil ~le cl1Cvrc Angora, dit Moha ir , Asie 111incurc, Cap; poil d ' a]p;1g:t , Pc ro u, Cb il i; poi l Jecachcmi rc , Jnd cs, T hi bcl ; pail de ch:unea u , P~ ys oricntaux. Bradford est con nu p:irtout commc le 11wrchC pri n· c ipal de tous cc:s gen res.
Some Fact s About Bradford and Briti sh Wool Text il e Indust ry. CITY OF 131lADFORDL, t. 5:!A. N. Long. 1. 7.\:V. Elevation, 251 10 1207 rcct above the sea. Arca, 22.844 acres (or 3.i ~ square miles .) PopulJtion, 189 1, 216,000; 1910, 289,000 . Densit y of P op ll l 11 tion 12.95 persons per :.tc rc, D e ath R:11c, 1910, l:l.85 per 1,000. Dir th Rate, 19 10, 18 .56 per 1,000. R:.1tc:.1blc V:.duc of Buildings, &c. for 1:1~.111011, 1910, £ 1,566,796. Letters Jeli\·crcd, 189-1, l i,700,000; 19 IO, 33,000,000. \.Vatcrworl,scost £:t,S l :J, 107 Stor;1gc, 1,819,000,000 gallons . Gas \.Vorl;scost, .£1 , 183,928. C o:d ca rbor1 izcd , 200,000 tom; per :lntHllll, G :1s produced, 2, US,0U0,0U0 cubic fcc1 . T r:1mw:.1ys (E lectric) , 5-1 111ilc1:,. \.Vonl Mills in Yorkshire. 1,471. \Nool Combing 1\bchi11cs, 2,650. \Voollc n Carding Sets, 4,175. Bradfo_".'i_c_ l'lndust ria Lani cra ! nl1!!s_!, Un po' di statistica. C ITTA DI I3R,\ DFORDLa t. ,::;:u Nor<l . Long. 1.7 o ,·cst . E lcvazionc : 76 a. 36S mct r i al d1sopra dc l livcllo Jcl mare . S1q,crl1c1e : 924G Etta.ri. Popolazionc: 1891, 2 !G,000 ;ih1tanl1; 1910, 2S9,000 Dcnsita dc\la popolazionc :~2 pcrsonc per c tt;iro .\lort:ilidt 11cl 1910, 1:t.S5 pe r millc. ;\laSt i t:1 ncl 191 0, 18.56 pe r millc V:tlorc tassato degl i im• mo hili CCC,: 40 mil ioni di lire it. :--iurncro <lc llc lettcrc dis• tr ibuitc d.il la pos t a 1&'94, IS mil ioni; 1910 , 33 nulioni. l 1lstalbzioni d';1cqua: \/ ;don: 100 1rnlioni di lire it. Cap:icita de i serhatoi d':n:qua: S266 rnilioni di litri. lrnpi:u1to J~I gas: _\lal orC 30 rniliont di lire 1t. Quantit~t di carbonc car• bonizzatu: 200 milioni di l(g per an110. Qua111 itii di ga s prodott o : 61,000,000 metri cubi per :urno. Tramways Elcttrici J\luni• c1p~d i : SS l(m. Totalc dci laniftc i: 147 1 (In tutlo lo Yori. shin:). Pcttinatrici: 2650. Assortime nti di Cardc pe r lana: 4175. Bradford et l'Industric ~ ini~~)11aise. Un µeu <le Statistique . VILLE DE BRADFORDLat. 5:U '.':ord. Long. 1:; Oucst. E\~,-:,tion: 76 i1 :1c;s mCtrcs :ui•dcssus du ni\"cau de la mcr·. S11pc r lic ic: 9'.!4Ghectares. P opul :1tion: 189 1, 2rn,ooo hahit:rnts: \9lO, 2~9.000 habit :111ts . DcnsitC lie la population: :l'.l pcrsonncs :\ ]'hectare, 1\ lort:di1C c11 1910: 13,85 par millc. N;1iss:111{:cs en 1910: IS. 56 pa r millc. Valcur taxec Jes im1ncuhlcs, etc . : 40 millions lk francs. No rn hrc de lcttrcs distri• buCcs par la postc, 1S94: 18 m i llions; 1910, :13 mi ll ions . ln st:1ll:1 1iond'cau: Va lc ur 100 millions Jc francs. Capac1tC des rCsc rvoirs d \·:iu: S'.WG millions de lit res. Usincs i1 g:iz: Valcur 30 millio ns de t"ran cs , QuantitC de charbon c:ir• bo111sC: :.!00 millions lws par :rn. Qu:11Jtit C Jc gaz produit: 61 millions mCtrcs c ubes par an. Tr1\\1~:i\': ~r:au~ I: C ~! 1;_i 1~~~ e s T otal Jes f abriq ucs bi111Crcs: 147 1 (d:ms t out le Yori.shire) . Pcii,:ncuscs: 2650. SCrics de Cardcs pour L:.i nc: 4175.
Some Fact s abo ut Wool Text ile lndust r y- con/d. Spi nnin~ Spindtes- ,\luk. 1,1,02,215. other. 2.6 1tn7. Power Looms. S0.35~). Persons c111plo1 ed, total, 261.192. of \\hid1 Brad• ford h:ts 10~ .llOO. BR.-\DfORIJ"S l\°OOL 1, 0CSTll \°- \' :iluc ur Br:idfmJ Exports to U.S..-\. 111 1910. £3,090,Jlf. Export s- \\ 'not!l'n , \\'or - stcd, .\ loh:.i r. & Alp:1ca yarn: 1891, ."i:i,02~.coo lbs.. \'aluc.. C5,U~5.000. 1910, 9~.25i, UOO lbs., ,·:iluc. £9.U~6AUO. Export s-Combed or Carded \\1011ls:111d Tops: 1891 , f.,Hi,O UO lbs. weight Tops, , ·:i luc £~5S.000. 1910, ~2. J:!0,0 00 lbs. ,,·_c~g-~•l To ps, ,·,due £3,.,s,.ooo. Export '.\'oils: IS91, 10,608,000 lbs., value, £61'3,000, 1910, 17,?:12,000 lbs., ,·.ilu(', £1.1:w.ooo. Number of Sheep in ~~: \~~52,~~t g cl OIll Un po' d i s t a t isti c a - conlinua:ionc Fusi di filatura: Rcn"iJcur, 1,602.215. Altri . 2.fil4,i27. Ttl:ii mcccanici: S0,359. Tot:ilc dcgli opcrai: '.!(il,192 lli c11i Bradford co11t :1 10~.000. L' J:,,;l)UST/~1.-\ LANI ERA DI BIV\DrQRD. Esportazionc di Br:1dfor<l agli St:i\1 Uniti ncl 19 10: i~ md ,oni Ji lire it. Esr,ort:izionc di fil a ti car• da1i, pctt11wti, moh:,ir cd :ilp:icca. 1891: 25 milioni Ji l(g. dcl V:durc di 125 milioni di li1c it. 1910: -'3 milioni d i !(gr. dcl V:.ilorc di 225 mil10n i di lire it . Esportazionc di lana, pcu inata o cardata, cumprcsi i "tops." 189 1 : :J milioni di l(gr. dcl V:dorc d i 12 milioni di lire i t. 1~)1 0: S mil !oni di !(g r. Jc] Valorc <l1 85 1nilioni di lire 1t. E:-portazionc di Noils, IS~ll: 5 milioni di l(gr. dc l V~dorc di 17 miliun i lli lire it . 19 10: S 1nilioni Ji Kg r . <le i Valorc <li '.!9 milio11i di lire it . Xumcro dcllc pccorc ne l Rcgno-Unito ncl 1909: pill di 32 mil ioni. Un p e u d e Sta tistiquesuilc. Brochcs :\ flier : Rcnvidcur, l .G0'.!,2 15. Al1trcs, '.l,614,727. ;\ICtic1·s mCcaniqucs: so,:J59. T otal des ouvricrs: 26 1, 19Z dont Bradford m<!mc comptc 10-' ,00J. L "INDUSTRI E L Al:-I IERE DE BRADFORDExpor1:1tion de Bradford aux Et:11s-Uni~cn 1910 : 78 milliocs de Irnncs . Exportation de 111s ca rdCs, peignCs, mohair et a lpaga, IS9 1: 25millions J,os vakur l '.:!5 m ill ions de francs; 191 0 , 43 m ill io n s lms vall'ur 225 m illions de fra ncs. Expo rt ation d e lu in c pcignCc ou cardCe, Y t.:ornpris " t ops," 189 1 : 3 n,illio, is kos valeur 12 millions de francs; 1910: 19 millions kos valcur85 m illions de francs . Exportation des bl ousscs, 189 1: 5 mil lions l;os va lcur 17 mill io1~s. dr. r ,··111cs· 1910: S in,lltons l,(;S v;,;lcur 29 mill ions de franc, . Nomb1·c de hrcbis d:111 i~~ Roy:wmc•Un i c11 19 ' p lus de :! '1 1nillions.
Bradford's Wool lndustry- co11li11ued. \ Veight of \\fool Clip for United l(i n i,.:dom 1910, l -l'..!,877,000 lbs. 19 10 \ ,\fool Imported and Retained for Consumption, 769, -IO0,ooo lb:-:. United l(ingdom \\fool Retained \Ofi,fl!lO,OOOlbs. Total S75,:IO0,00U lbs. E\\f~::tc~t i{;;i~~(:n 1 ~\;~~ £1:.1,700,000. 1910, .£25,0S0,000. Total Exports of 1\br1ufaeturcs of \\fool. l8f18, £24,077,000. 1910, £42,655,000. Exports of J\fanufocturcd \.\fool Goods. First four months1909 .£6,553,000. 19IO .£S,56 1,000. 1911 .£9,306,000. L ' lndustria. Laniera di Bra.diord-conlinuozione. Peso totale dclla tosah1ra della I.urn ncl RegnoU nito ncl \ !HO: G5 milioni di l(g1·. Peso dclla lana imporlata ncl 1910 e ritenuta per l'industria inglcsc :150 milioni J(gr . Peso della 1:ina indigcn:1, ritcn uta per l'industria inglcse -IS milioni l(gr. Tobie . 39S milioni l(gr. Espo r tazionc di tcssuti di di lana. 1898: :1-1:1 m ill oni di lire it. H>I0: 617 milioni di lire it. Esporta1.ione totalc d'articoli di lana. 189S: 60S milioni di lire it. 1910: !077 milioni di lire it. Esportazione di ::irlicoli di lana. 1909 (mcsi Gennaio•r\prile) 165 1111l ioni di lire it. 1910 (mcsi Gcnnaio-Aprilc) 216 milioni di lire it. 1911 (mcsi Gcnnaiu-Aprilc) 2:15 milioni Ji lire it. L ' lndus tri e Lainie r c. de Sra.dford- JU ife. Poids total de tout c la bi11c dans le Ro}:1llmeUni en H>I0: 65 millions \,os. Poids de la 1:tinc importCe en HJIO et retcnue pour l'indus t ri c :111glaisc :J;)O millions l;os. Poids de la lainc indigi:nc, rctcnuc pour l'i11dustric angl:iisc,48 million:-: kos. Total - :ms millions hos . Exportation de tissus de laine: IS~)S, :!4:l millions fran cs; 1910,627millions de francs. Exportalion totale <.!'articles de binc: IS9S, 608 millions de francs; 1910, 1077 millions de francs. Exportation J'articlcs de lair1e: 1909 (mo isJa11vicr/ r\vril) 165 millions de francs: 19 10 (mois J:uwier/Avri l) 2 16 1nilhons de fr:rncs; 19 11 (111oi~ J anvicr /.\wil) 2:t'i millions de fr ,mcs.
Introduction to Exhibi~ Br:td(ord's own spcci:d• itics :ire, bc:-icks the co111hing an.I spinning of wool - in which it is facile princeps -the \\caving, dyeing , and finishing of :111 kinds of fabrics for ladies arnl gc11tlcmcn. An :dmost infinite varictv of :ill-wool, wool ;111d Jjll;, w~ol :1ndcot ton, moh:1ir , c' r tific:i:i l sill,, :md alp:1c:1 stufTs :ind linings arc produced in Br:1dforJ to meet the 1:1stcs of the most fastidwus :1nd alike the most conservative. From Paris to P eru, from Pctcrsburg: lo Pcl.1 11, Bradfon..l st ufTs :ire lmown and prized for their desi!(n, colour, finish, and quality, A glance at the Tableaux Nos . VII., V III. and IX. in wh ich a!l the cos1urncs :ire of Br:.idford manufactured stuff, and of the c.iscs containing sample lengths of cloth, will sullice to illuslr~1tc only a portion of what has been sa id. To realise the foll range of manu factures with wl1ich Bradford is concerned one mu st s pend da) sin exploring its splendid warehouses and factories. T he nme Tableau:,; of the Exhibit of the Bradford Chamber of Commerce :11"e dcsig ncJ to ill ust rate the main processes only , in the manufacture of \Vorstcd (i.e., al l wool ) stuffs for which Br:1dford is f:imous all o,,er the world. Osservazioni Generali. Perla pett inat ur:i c filat lll":1 dclla l:111a, Gra dford 11011 ha chi l'ci-:uagli c con tcmpor• anc:uncntc , ·i C a nchc la tcs - s itlu-:i. la I inlur:1, c l'app1·ct to per ogni gcncrc di stoffa sia d:1 uomo chc cb donn :1. A Br:1dfonl si bbhrirano una varictit il limitata di tessuti di pura la11~1 , l:1na c sc1 a , lana c cotonc, mohair, scta artifkialc al pacca cd anche Jelle fodere. L:1 scclta C molto vasta c c:.1p:1cc di sodd isfa rc i gusti pill difficili . Da Parigi al Perl!, da P ictrohurgo a Pcl,ino, le sto!Tc Ui Br:1dford sono con• oscil1tc c prcfcritc per le loro innumcrcvoli huonc qua liU1. T utti i,:li ::ibiti cl1c si trovano nci qua dri VI I., V III. e IX. sono fatti cun dclle stoITc di B radford. Basta de] rcsto gclta rc un colpo d 'occhio sullc vclrinc chc contengono le storrc. pcico1wincen;cnc. P er forsi un'idca dclla scricco111plcta<lci tcssuti chc si fobbric:mo in 13i-adford, s'impicglicrchbero dcllc giol'll:ttc intierc a visit:1rc i 1m1g:1zzini c la gran<li fobbri<.:hc di qucsta citt:i.. Gli otto quadri scgucnti hanno lo scopo di di most r:.ire i princip:tli processsi nclla fabb ri c:1zionc dci tcssuti di pura bn:1, per i quali I3rad• ford C gius1a111cnte rinornata la migliorc in tutto ii mondo. 10 Observations Ge"ne"rales. Pour le pcignage et pour le fil:1gc de la lainc Bradford n 'a p:1s d'i:g::d. On y bit aussi le tiss:1gc, la tcint ure et l'apprCt de tout genre de t issus pOlll" vCtcmcnts d"homme et de femme. 11 sc fobriquc ;l Bradford uncvariCt<: illimiti:edc tissus de pure b inc, l:1inc et soie, laine et co l' on, moh:ii r, soie artifkicllc, alpaga, ain s i que lcs doublurcs. Le choix en est :1sscz gr:1nd pour satisf:.1i rc au x goUts des pcrsonncs lcs phis di ffici lcs. De Paris :w PCrn u, de St. Pctcrsbourg, ~L PCl.in , les Ctoffcs de I3radford sont connucset pri:fCrCes a cause de lcurs nombreuscs bonncs qualiti:s. Taus lcs costu111cs qu i se I rouvcnt dan .; lcs tableaux \ ' I I.. VI 11. cl IX. sont fa its de tissus ~'.c Br:1dford. II suflit du rc s!c de jeter un co11p d 'ccil sur Jes vitr inesqui contienncnt lcs CtofTes pour s'cn con\'ai11crc . P our sc faire unc idCe de la sCfic comrlCtc des tissus q ue fob· riquc Bradford, on mettrait dcsjournCcsc111 iCrcsi.l visiter lcs m:igasins et lcs grandes f:dwiqucs de ccltc vi lle . Les ncu f tableaux s ui v:wts ont k but de nc dCmontrer quc ks pri11cip:1u.-.: procCdl:s dans l:.i n,:111uf:1cturc des tissus pure !:tine , p:-iw· les· quels Bradford cst £1 juste ti tre re 110111111Cd a11s lL· rnondc cnticr.
HOHAf/13 ALPAGA 3 -'ILPACCA OVEING TEINTUIURIE TINTORIA WEl1VING TIS5f16£ TESSITUIM 5Pt/\lNIN6 Ftt.flfURE Fll.RfUR"1 IV00l.SORf/N6 SHE£P TRIRt;e BR/ISl:S SC~U/1 PECORE SHOOr11vG CHRSSC Cl'ICClfl
Sheep Gra z in g (;.c .. Woo l Growingl , TABLEAU !. Grc:ll 13rit :1in :rnd Jrcl :tnd h :l \ 'C :11,,.,0,00.1 sheep or m:iny difTcrcnt breeds :111d produc i ng \\"OOI o f \\' id c!y \ ":II") 1n i:: c h:1ractcr. T he l:1ndsc:1pc is typic:d of p:tsluring grou r1 d, :rnd , ·:1rious sheer fro111 the wool of , , hrch Bradford goods:1rc produ ced arc sho\\ n. Th e wool is shorn once a yc:ir, usu:illy in .\l:iy, :111d t he ,,·ool is sold by th e: f:1r111cr either d 1r c1._· t to a dealer i11 ,1001, or it 1.s p: 1cl,cd a1HI :,;cnt 10 be sold :.it t he ncan::-1 wcol f:tir·. Such fairs :1n: held c1Try yc:u- in many to\\'11s in E ngla nd :111d Scotlaml dur in~ ,J une :md July, a 11d :ilso peri o di c ally i n D 11hl111 . 13urcrs :1ttcnd th ese b in; frorn Ur:1{Hord :1:1 d the 11 1:111uf:icturing d i:otrn,; ts as 11(.']I :1s from Amcric:1. Bui th o ugh G reat Gr it:1i n carries :, lar;.:l"r n u 111bcr of sheep for its :11ca t h :111 :111y country in th -:- wnrlJ, it dr:1ws woo l supplies fro 111 C\·cry quarter of the gl obe. T he imports 1d wool :1 nJ h:1ir t o 11ritish po r ts r etained for consumption in rnJU amounted to 769,.W0,000 lbs., am! th •· \\ l'igh t of l1 ritish wool produce d was IH,877,000ll>s., and the arnount retain e d w :1s 105,~)0!1,000. All evamento delle Pecore (Col tivazi one della Lana). QU.-\DRO ;\ _ I. L :1 Gran B rct l:1gna c ]' I rl:,nd:i pnsscggono pccorc di diH·rsc r:iz zc, d:d lc qu:tli si ot t cngono l:111c \·:1ri :111 t i molto nd gcncrc ["un:1 d:tll'- :dtr:1. 11 q11:1dro scgucnte r :1pprcsc-11ta 1111 tipico pas colo . D:1 <p1csta sccn:1 past o r:1lc c.-111:111::1 uno cli ar111 e s111gol:t r c, chc tr:1sporta per poc hi ist:111ti, lont:1110 d:il fumo c d: il ru1110rc dcllc f:1bbrid1c. G li :111im:tli \'C11go110 t osati u11 :1 ,·o ll:1 per :111110. gcncra l111c11t<.: 111 .\l:1ggio, c le l:in c \ cngo110 , ·cndutc :1d llll COlllmcrci:rnt c o Yt·ngo no i:1\"iatc ad una Jelle nu111c rosc fie rc di l:111:1 ch c h:111110 luog o in 111olt c c itt:'1 c chc Ro110 rq;ol :1nne11 t e visit:1tc d:ii curnpr:1tori di Br:1 dford c di :dtri ccntr i !: 111ieri i11g!csi. L a Gr:111 Hretl:1g11:1 qua n - t unquc posscgg a dci grcggi d 1 p<.:corc pil1 n unwrosi di qu:1lu11quc :iltro p:1csc. co111pr:1 ddlc 1:tnc in tutt i I p :1 c. s1 dcl momlo. Sullc bne i111 po rtatc ncl 19ltl; l'i11dustria inglc.:Rc ha ntcnu t o quasi :m5 rni lioni di !(g . L:1 tosa t ur:1 inJigcn:1 d iedc qu:1si G5 111ilioni di l(g. dci quali -J S m il ioni rcs t:1ru no in l ngh1ltcrr~1. 12 Ele vage d e Brebis (Cul t ivati on de Laine). T.-\131-11 .-\U 1. L:1 Grande Brctagnc et I· I rl:1ndc po:;sCdcnt :{I,750,000 ba·his de dil"l·r,;cs races dont on ohtlc1H des lai11c~ dc genres fol"\ ,·: , ril·s. Le t:1hlc:1u q11 '011 \'Oit ;~.\~i:i~'.t'.·scntc 11n p:ltur:i gc Un ch: 1r111c sin~ulicr sc dC t .1chc de ce tt c scCn c p:1s- :oralc et paisihlc. On sc sent in\"olon1:1iremc11t t ransportC. 11c fut•<"C quc pour qucl quc s instants, loin de la f u111 l·c et d ll bruit des usincs . 011 tond lcs brchis unc fois par :m. gCnCr;dc rncnt :1 u mois de mai, et le rc rmicr ycnd l:1 !:line i1 u11 m:irchand, ou hicn il l'cnvoic i1 unc ties 110111hrcuscs fo:rcs tic 1:tllll' qui ont lieu dans bcaucoup de ,·i llcs cl q ui sont rCgu- !iCrcn1c nl , ·isi t l·cs p:11· lcs :11.:h c tcu rs de 13r:idro rd et tt":rnlrcs cen t res l:1i11icrs de l'An1,:lc:crre. L:1Gr:1:1dc Bret ag11c , bien q11c posst:d:1 11 l dt·s tro u pc:wx plus nomhrcux q11c 11 "in1por t_c qucl :1utrc p:1ys . s'approv1sionnc de l:11ncs d:rns toutcs Jes p:1rt ics du 111o ndc . Su r lcs l:ii11cs impor tl:cs en 1909 :~:~{~l:~ 1;!~/:~l~:;:~I~ l:~:~I.C;::: ton Le ind igt: n c don n :1 c 11v1ro 1'. 6:) millions lms, dont 48 millions l;os rcstCrc nt d :111s 1 ,c pays, le sol dc Ct :111l export.: .
~ Sor ting. T,lllLEAU II. E\'cry Ike-cc of \\"onl :1s it comes from _ I he she ep or go;1t compri ses wool of ddkrcnl le ngths and quali - ties- some being much co:1rscr :111d some shorter than the rest. The best qu:d1tyof wool is th:1t which c o ,·crs the neck and shou lders of the :mirn:d. That which comes from the hi nd legs :1nd tail - I he hritch wool :is 11 is c:tl lcd-is co:irsc and strong :md ·the least \':iluablc portionof I he llcccc. These \' :lrious qu:1li1 ics must he scp:1r :1 t cd , 1l 1cu thi:rc :ire frcq ucnt lr lumps o f dirt, pieces of bl1rrs . &c., picked up in th e field or 1hc farm pr,1, \\hi ch adhere rn the llcccc a nd wluch must be rcnuffcd. All this requires care :1nd discri1111 nal1on and can onlv be done h\' those who h:n:e a quick cy·e, good judgment. :111d arc fo1111 1ia r with th e wool. The men who perform this work :.ire c:1llcJ "\\fool-sorters." They ,,·or!, at a table or bench, as shcwn in this tahlc;m, surrounJcd hy brgc basl;cts o r sliepsintowhich thcd ilTerent qualities :H"C thrnwn. As it often h:ippens that the fl<-<:ccs, especially I hose wh ich come from the East, arc \"cry dusty, the sorting tables ha\"c a wire grid through which the dust is drawn by an cxlwust fan. Th is renders 1hc sor t ers' occupation a 111uch mor e hc:1lthy one 1han it ot herwise would he. A ssortimento delle Lane , QUADRO "· 11. Og11i tosatura di pccor:1o monto11c comprendc chfkrenti qualit;'1 e lunghezze di Jana. Vi sono Je1 pd1 pil1 COC/l e t~a g l~ljt '- j i~~C~li~~l~ l l~i trov:1 su ll a nuc:1 csulk spa lie. Al contr:1 rio quclb dcllc J.::unhc c dclla coda, fonna la qu;di1:·1 infima ~lella tns:1\ ura. Nc l com1ncrcio dclle 1:tnc qucste ultime "engono chiamatc ' 'CUISSARDS. •· La l:111a ,·icnc di,·isa ncllc diffe rcnti qu:1lit~1. Glr sG1rtatori chc nc sono inc:mcati liherano ncllo stcsso tempo 1:i 1:uia da sostanzc cstrance chc si trovano intrecciatcfrn i pcli. Per la divisione dcllc t,111c bisol!na a\·crc dellc cogniz ioni spcciali cd un colpo d'occhio giusto. Colllc si vcdc nel quadro, gli scartatori lavor:1110 prcsso una t·avola, e sono circondati da grandi ccstc per le diffcrcnti qualitU di lana. Sic:come spcssissimo 11cllc tosature, e spccialmcntc in qucllc chc vcngono dai paesi oricntali, vi C molt,1 pol\'ere, ogn i tavo la per lo sca r to C pron·ista d1 una griglia att,·a\·c rso la qua le la polverc vicne aspirata per 111czzo di vcnt ilatori. Questodiminuisccdi molto i rischi dal punto di vista il!icnico ai quali sorwcspost i gli scartatori . I ◄ L e Triage des Laines. TABLEAU 11. de C~'i\ 1 t\~:~ l-~~1~1 1 ~:!~1~·csirrz:: cotes_ qualttcs et longueurs de _l:11nc. 11 y a des roils qu1 so n t phis gros et p lus c~uns que l<;s. autrcs. La h~rn~ plus prcc1eusc est du ~otc de la nuquc et des cpa~ les. Pa1· cont rc cellc des pm bes de dcrriCre et de !a _queue forme. la p.irtic mfeneure de la to1son. Dans le COllllllCl"Ce des laines on appclle cc\a les "cuissards" 11 f;1ut sCparcr ccs d iffC~- entes qualitCs. Les tricurs qui en sont chargCs enlCvcnt aussi lcs_crot tins, gloutcrons, etc., qu1 sc ramasscnt dans lcs champs. Pour le triage des l:1incs ii faut Ju d isccrnemcnt et un coup d'o:::il just<.'. Com111eonvoitdanslc tablc:tu lcs tr icurs travaillcnt auprCs d'unc table, Ctant entourCs de grands paniers pour lcs dilTCrentes qualitCs de laine. Comme ii arrive souvent que lcs toisons, surtout ccllcs venant des pays oricntaux, contienncnt beaucoup de poussiCre, chaq ue table de t1· i-:1gc es,t pourvuc d'une grille,_, a travcrs laquclle la pouss1crc est cxtrai te moycnnant des vcntilateurs. Cela din1inue de bcaucoup lcs risq~1cs auxqu c\s les tricurs de la111c sc trouV_ent cxposCs.
\<fool Combing . T.-IIJI.EAU Ill. After the wnol h:1:,; bcc11 1horoughly washed, 01· scoured with so:ip :1nd hot w:ilcr to remo, ·c :111 the n:itur:il grease and sand ,,·hidi thctlcccc :1ccumula1cs in the course- of the yc:1r, there still rcm:1i_ns in it m:rnr seeds , burrs, hits of straw, &c .. :111J the fibres of the wool :ire t:111..:lcJ :1nd m:1ttcd. To eliminate these foreign substances. 10 disentangle all the !\hrcs :ind to by :ill the fibres scp:1r:itdy :dongsidc one :rnother. is the process or combing here !':.hown in opcr:1tio11 . In the old J:iys the wo rl, ,1:is laboriously pc1:formcd by !1:~nd. The mach,ncs here ohdntcd arc ~ob!c combs. through which the wool passes after it has been prepared. As the wool is Jr:1wn through the rows of nnc 1cc1h i n the comb, the seeds, I.nots, :rnd ,·en· short (ihres :ire held hac'!. to be presently remo\'cd ;111t.l p:1ssed into a can as "noils,"' while the lon,i.: part of t l~e wool is coiled up as a con tmu ous rope or" sli,·cr" int o a hall or" top.' ' Brad • ford docs :m enormous trade 1n "tops" or combeJ wool. much of which is exported to the Continent of Europe. Pe ttina tura. QUADllO ~ - Ill. Al!o scopo di estr:1rrc d:1!)a lana ii gr:1sso n:1tur:ile e la s;1bbi:1 chc si :1ccu111ul:1 sull' :rni111:dc durante ii corsn dell :111110.si C obhlig:1ti di J:i,·arla e sgrass:,rb con acqu:1 c:lld:1 c saponc. Anchc dopo qucsto l:1,·aggio nclla l:nla rcst:.1110 dci granclii di sabbi:1, dci fili di pai-:li:1 ccc. c le fibre rcst:ino attorcigliatc. Pei· climin:1rc qucstc 111_atc ric cstr:1ncc . pcr p;ir:11lclizz:1rc le fibre, si sottoponc b lan:i :id una pe11inatur:1; opcraz ionc chc C 1nostrata in qucsto qu:1dro. Te mpo addictro l:t pcttin- :itura si f:icc,·:1 ;1 m:1110, rendcndo qucsto la,·oro 111olto f:iticoso. Oop o f:1 prcpar:tzione ncccss:iria Ja lana p:.1ssa attra , ·erso le pcttin:1tl' ici "NOBLE '" chc si \'cdono ncl quadro. In qucsta macchina la Jana passa attraverso dei rastrcl!i a Jen ti s trctti, in mododa impcdirc il pass:.iggio allc sostanzc estrance cd alle fibre trop po co r te. In questo moJo s i otticnc. 1° La lan;1 lunga a forrna d i n:1stro cont in uochc finisce per .a vvolgcrsi intorno .ad una bobina che vienc chiarn:.ito "TOP.' ' 2° La Iana cort :1 , che di comme rcio vie11e ch iamata :: ~~rL~~/' ed in Inglese La citta di Bradford ha un comrncrcio eno rm c di " TOPS" e "NOILS. " 16 P e ignage . TABLEA U II I. Afin d'c:,;tr;1irc deb bi 11 c la gr:1issc n:_1turcllc ;li11si quc le s~ihlc qu1 s'accumulc sur 1':iniinal d:111s le cou rant de l';rnnCc 011 est obligC de la l:t\"cr et de la dCgraisscr :wee du savon ctdc !'c:1u cktUde. i\\Cinc :1pri::s cc !av:.igc ii rcstc d:1ns l:1 lainc des graincs, des brins de p:iil!c, des chardons . etc .. et lcs filaments de la l:1i11c sont entortillCs et fcutrCs. Pour Cl imin cr ces mat1Cres Ctr:rng:Crcs, pour dCg:1gcr lcs fil:uncnts et lcs poser l'un a cOtC de l'autrc, on sou111ct la Jainc :ni pcign:ige. opfr:ition qui est dCmontrCc dans cc tablerw . Dans le pa ssC le pc ignagc sc fois:1it {1 la main, cc qui. naturcllcmcnt , Ctait un tr:1v:1il fort 1:iborieux. r\p1·Cs la P.r·Cparation nCccssairc l:t l:1111c passe pa r des Pcigncuscs "Noble" que nous :i vans sous lcs yeux. D ,111s ccttc m~ichinc la laine est p:issCc :'1 tra,·ers des rangCCs de pointcs fines qui barrent le passage aux gr:iincs, pctits bo u to ns, fibres trop courtcs, etc . De cctte ma n iCrc on o btic nt: I~ la lainc longuc fo rn,c d_e rnban continu qui finit par sc rcnoucr en unc bohinc ditc " TOP." 2? la lainc cou1·tc qui passe d:ins un pot et qu 'on appcllc<lans lccommcr~e "bloussc," en angl:11s "NOIL." . La vi ll c de Bradford fait un co 1n rncrcc c':no n ne en " TOPS" et" NOi LS."
Wool Spinning (or Worsted Spinning). TABLEAU I\ ' . Aft er the wool has bee n combed and made into "tops' ' the next process is "dr:111 ing, "where the v:1rious qu:ilitics of sli1·crs :ire mixed and then dr:nrn :md twisted into ravings ready for the spinning fr:unc. The :1i 111 :1nd pu rpose of spinning is ~o reduce ~he ro\'ing to a fine 1hrc:1d, 1111• parting lo ita certain amount or t11ist to gi\'c strength to the finished thread or ya rn, which is then rea1.h1 to be twisted together fOr two - fold, for warp , or used as wdt for weaving. In the foreground arc two types of spinning frames used in the Bradford trade. ( IJ A Oyer frame, (2) a cap frmnc. The Oyer frame is generall y u-:cd for long wools :and ,\1oh:u r and Alpac:1, and Ihe Oyer sp111dlc runs at from 1500 to 3.iOO revolution s per minute. The cap framc runs faster. the spindle m:11.ing from 6000 to 8000 rc\'Oluti ons per minute accorJi ng to I he fineness oft he rarn required When the l111lc bobb ins 01: spools on the spinning frame arc full. the nnchinc is stopped, :nH.l lhc fu ll bobbi ns :.ire "dofTc~" or removed b)• boys or . i:::rrls, who rcpl:.ice t~cm with empty bobbins ~\•tth wonderful dexterity, or ::re changed by mechanica l dofTcrs.·• Filatura della Lana. QUADRO :-1. IV . Una volta pcttinata ed av\·olta in bobine (TOPS) la lan:.1 passa a ll a prepara zionc . In qucsta ope r;:1zione i diversi nastri d i lana si tro\'ano simultaneamente tirati e torti e r idotti in stoppin i sottili. prima di p:.1ssare su ll a machina a tl1:1rc. Lo seopo della filat ura C di ridurre lo sloppino ad un filo sottile, d:wdogli un:i volu ta torsione. In questo modo si hanno dei fili forti e pronti ad accoppiars i per servire da ordito o trama. Sul da,·anti si vcdono due ~cncri di macchine per fil:i • tura impicg:ate ne\1c fil atu rc di Bradford. 1° Un filatoio cont inua ad alctte. z:i Un filatoio conti1rno a cappcllo . I I fil:,toio ad a l c tt e s'impicJ.:a gcneralmcntc per le l:mc lunJ.:he e per le lane .\lohair ed Alpacca ed ha la \·clocit:'! di 1500 a 3000 gin al rni11uto. JI lrl:11oioa c:1ppcllo C p it, ,·clocc bcendo <la G000 :1d 8000 giri a l minuto, a scconda dellospcssore <lel filo voluto. Quando le bobine h:rn no la voluta quantit:J. Ji filo :inolto, ii fllatoio viene fc r - m:ito e de i ragazzi o Jelle r:igazze, con una vclocit:i me\·avigliosa, tolgono Je hob1nc complete rnnpiazz:_1 11 l_lo lc con quclle tla riempll's1. Qu~sta operazionc puO fars 1 anchc m eccanicamcntc. IS Filature de Laine. TA B LEAU I V . Unc fois peignCC et en. rn_u lCc en l?o b inc ,(Tops) la la111c passc a la p reparat ion Dans ccttc opCr:it ion le~ divers rubans de laine sc tro uvcnt mClangCs et simu lta nC:ment CtirCs et tordus et ains i rCdu its e n mCchcs fines avant d'aller s ur le mCtier a filer. Le but et la raison de la filat urc est de rCd uirc la mCche £1 un fi l fin en v mctt:int un certain Jeg·re de tors ion . D e cette maniCre on renforcc Jes nl s ache\'CS qui sont prcts alors it Ctre tordus ensemble pour les fil s doub les, pour c haine, ou pour tramc. Sur le tleva n t on voit deux genres de rn Cticrs a flier, cmplores dans lcs filaturcs de Bradford. 1° U 11 mCticr contin u avcc · hrochcs a ailcttes . I J0 Un mCticr continu avec · brochcs a cloc hes. Le m etie r ,'.t ai l e t tes s'emp loi e gCnCralementpour lcs bincs longues, et pour la laine i\ \ ohair et Alpaga, les b rochcs fai sant 1500 a 3000 rc'.:volutions par 111i11ute. Un metier a cloches march~ plus vite, atteignant 6,000 a 8000 revolutions par rrnnute, s ci o n la finess e dCsirCc du fil voulu. . Quand les petites bobine~ ou Cpoulcs sur. le inCtie_r. ! fil e r sont remplies on anct le mCtic r et des garc;ons. au des filles enlCvcnt lcs bobincs pl ei nes en lcs ren1pla~ant avec u1~e adrcsse Ctoiurn nte par des bobi11cs vidcs. Pour cette. opCl"ati,_rn ,?', pc~~;i~ se r v1r auss1 d appa en!eve urs m Ccan iqucs .
Weaving. TABLEAU \·. Th e pr inciple or wca \·inj.! - J; now11 to men o f all cou n • t ri ci- fo r :tgcs- is the s:unc in the mode r n pO\\·cr looms :1s i,11 hccl cmcnta rv an-:1ngc111cnt in which t l~c l{hurd w caYCS hi s r ugs. The w:irp runs the ICl11g \\":\)' of t h<.: piece to he WO\'cn, the t h rc:1Js being \\"{Jlllld on the "hcarn ·· trollcr) :1t the hack of the loom. The purpose of t he loom is to enable the wr.:;1\Tt" 10 cross tl1csc w:1rp ti1n:ads w ith o th er tlin'. atis or yarn c:il lcJ "weft." T his is done h, · c1us i 11g a s huttk contai 11in.g :t bo b bin of weft t o pass hct,,ccn ti n.: warp - Ihn:aJs. ,, h id, :11-c held :1p:1rt - u1a_. part of thc111 hL· ing !ir tcd by ! lie hc:dds. Af tcrthcsliuttlc hasp:.issc d, the posit ion of I he wa r p - I hn:a<ls is reversed the o ne half :ire d1·oppcd ;111J the ot her h:df lifted so th: 11· the s huu1" m :1r p;iss hct\1-cc11 t hem :1g:1i11 , but in the other Ji 1·cc 1ion. As the shut tle fli es to :111d fro t he cloth is s tcaJi ly built u p an d m:alc fi r m and ser vicc:1hlc. \"arictics in dcsig11 .:u1d colou ring :ire ohlainc,I hy the lifting o f Jiffcrcnt warp-thre1ds a nd hy the use of different coloured wef t s. T essitura. QUADRO N. \·. I ,a tcssitura C co nosci ut:t d agli uomin i da scco1 i c la base fo11Jamc11tal<.: de i telai mecc: rnici C 1:t s tcssa d i quc ll a dclla tcssitu ra primitivn. L'ord1to chc r:1ppresc11ta l:i l u ng\iczza desiderata de! t css uto dC\'e cssc rc ;1\·vo!to sul subio ante ri orc de ] tclaio. E' ii t claio c hc pc rmettc :.d tcss itm·e d'intrcccia rc i fili di ord ito COil gli a lt ri delli di trama rncrcC la 11 rrt1c tfa chc raccliiude una hobln:1 per trama. '.\cl momenta in cui i licci sollc1·:1 no una pa r tc del l' o rd ito, b n a\'Ctta vie ne l:m1.: ia1:, :1ttra,·erso i fil i, e ques t :1 opcr:1zione ,·iene r ipc tuta quanJo i lic: c i ::;o!lc - 1·:u10 un'altr:.i rarte del l' or· Jil<). A 111 isura clu: l:.i navctta p:1ssa d:1 un l:i to all'~d t ro, si rorn1:1 ii tcssuto c.:olla solid it::L Pe r :n·cr-c del!c.: vari: 1zioni di discgno c J i colo re si f:wno sollcv:u-e dilkrcnti fi li Ji catena (uJ orJito) inscrcmlo dcllc tramc di di1·c rsi co!ori. Le Ti ssage. TABLEAU \·. Le t issage est connu a ux hommcs dcru is des siCclcs et la base fondamcntalc en est tou jours la mCmc. qu' il s':,gissc de la disposition primi tive d 'u n l(ourdc en tr:lin de tissc r des couvcrturcs au d'un mCticr rnCc:111 - iqu c perfcct ionnC. La chalne qui rcprCscntc la longueur dCsirCc du drap, doit Ct r e enroulCe sur l'cnsouplc dcrriC rc le mclicr. C'cst le mCticr qui pcrmct :1u t issc r:u1d d 'c n trclaccr les Il ls de cha inc- :t\'CC J';1u trcs flls :ippc lCs " t r:m,c" en cmploy:111t l:1 " 11 ;n ·ettc" qu i renf crmc uncbobinc :'1 tramc. Au 111oment all lcs l.11ncs soulC\'cnt unc partie de la c h,1i1 1c la navettc cRt l.i11cCe iL tr:11·crs lcs flls, e t cette opCnttion sc rCpCte lorsquc lcs lames soull-v:cnt unc autrc partic de la cbainc. A mcsure quc la navette passc d ' un cOtC 11 l'autre le ti ssu sc fait, e n prenant la fcrmctCet la solid1tC ,·oulucs. Pour prod u irc des ,·ar i:.itions de <lcssins et de coulcur on fait sou lcve r d ilTCl"e nts fils d e cb ainc, en y i11sCranl de l:t tr:imc dc divcrscscoulellrS.
Dye ing, TAOLEAU VI. Colour effects :i re somct imcsobta incd by the Jycini;: -0f th e woo l or yarn either of t he w:irp or weft, or bo t h , before they :ire wo\·c11. But t he great bul k of b bri r.:s a rc ·woven in t he "grey" (i .c. , 1hc n:itural colour) :111d dyed .after they lca,·c the loom. Here :ire two d, ·cin~ \' csscls -of sma ll size ·such as :.ire used fo r dyeing " pa llc rns" - short lengths of clot h to be sen t out by the me rcha nt :.is sa mples. He re ;dso is ; 1 4 'whu zzcr" (hydro•ci.t ra ctor), in whic h the p ieces .ire pl;i ccd when t he y cmnc \\'Ct fro111 the dye vessels i11 1Jrdcr t hat the w:1tcr m:1y be driven off hr ccntrif ugal force. T he mac hi ne rc\'oh'cs 800 times pe r minute. /11 pra ctical ,,·orl;i11;; t he rn:1 chinc ry used in dyeing .::in d finishing is hC:J\'}' :t nd of g rc:1t s i;,:c- ;dtogctllc r t oo l:.i rgc for exhibition. T he <lrcing a nd fini s hing of goods .co111prise many pron:sscs, v:Jricd according to Ilic resu lt s 1Tquircd to be obt:1i ncd. T he softness of "iland lc," t he bri!li:rncc , the smooth - n ess, or the rc ,·c rsc :H"c all <Joa litics which depend upon these fi ni sh ing processes . Tintoria. QUADllO N. VI. Si ottcngono dcg li cffctl i d i colori divcrsi b ccndo ti n • gcrc, pri ma dclla tcssit ur:1, s ia la lana pctt ina t:11 chc i fil i di ord ito o di t r:una. 1>crO la maggiorp:1rtcdcllc n1crc i sono mcssc a tc laio c r uJt.· , cioC co n la lana al colo rc natu ra lc, c non C c he dopa cssere tollc dal tc laio chc vcngono t intc. No i vcd iamo qul d ue picco li h;1gni di t intura chc si us:i no pe r tingcre ii cam • pion:irio . Una , ·olta ti11te le s to ITc Teinture, T AI3LEAU V I. On olit ient des cffcts de coulc ur nll' iCs en faisant tc 1ndrc, a,·anl le tissage des pil:ccs d'Ctoffe, soit la lai ne pc ignCc , soit lcs f11 s de chaine ou Jc trame. Ccpendant la plupar t des m:1rcha11discs sont miscs au t issagc en Ccru, c 'cst a dire coule ur naturd le de la la inc, et cc n'cst qu':.1prCs leur sortie du mCt ierqu'on lcs fait tcindre . i\ ous :n·ons ici <lcux: pet its ba i11s de tc inturc q u'o n cmploic pour tcincil·e des coupons pour l 'Cc hanti llonvcngono mcssc nel la m:1c - nagc. c hina csposta, chiam;ita Unc fois tcintes, les piC.ces idro-csfr:1ttorc, la c u i fun - d'Cto!T c , encore toutes zionc C di c-stra rrc da1la trcn1pCcs, sont mises da ns sto!fa ll1tt :.i l' acqua in cssa la m:ichinc qu'o11 voi t ic i. contcm1ta, per mezzo dclla C'cst unc "cssoreu~e" dont forza ccnt rifuga. Qucsta la fonctionconsistcii.cnlcvc r m:1c chi11:i ha la , ·cloc it:\ di l' cau des piCces par la fo rce 800J::ir i al minuto . centrifuge , l a m achine In una csposizionc si dis- faisan t 800 rCvulu tions par po11c di u 110 spazio troppo minute. li m it:lto per poterv i monta rc Dans unc c .,posiLion on de llc m:1cchim: per ti ni.:crc / dispose d' un cspacc trap c per :1pprcttarc ncllc loro li mitC pour pouvoir y monter gra ndczzc o rigina li . La ti n- des macl,incs a tcind rc et a t ura c l"apprclt o <lei tcssut i apprCtcr da ns !curs dimc n• esigc dcl prncc ssi dc ll:.1 pill sions ori~i nalcs. gn.1 11 dc va ric t ~1. Si possono La t ci nt urc et l'a pp rCt des :1vc rc, a scconda del mctodo t issus ex igent des prncC<lCs imp icgato, dc llc sto fTc hr i l - de la plus granJe variCtC. bn t i, liscic , soflici , od ii Ains i o n pcu t avoi r, sc ion la contr:irio di t ullo c iO. mi: t hodc qu 'on cmpl oic, des Ctoffcs hr illa ntes, lisscs , et <l'un touchcr soup lc- ou le contrairc de tout ccb . 22
Henl ey Regatta. TAIJLE~\U V II. Th ere is uo rnorc pictur• c ~qucfy hrrllianl displ:1y of out-of-Joor sum rncr f:1shions than th:1t nf this famous rcg:1tta. Lu:-.urioustr furn ished Houseboats crowd the rc:ichcs of the Th~1mcs :rnJ "ic w11h the l:Jwns on the banl,s 111 their parties of pcr fcctlyclrcsscd women :1nd well-groomed mc11. All t he costumes in this tableau :ire m:idc from f:ibrics manuf:Jcturcd , dyed ~111d '1ni shcJ in Brad fo rd. La Re~ata di Henley. QUADRO ~- V I I. Non vi e pil1 br i ! lantc sfoggio dclla 111oda di :1bit i csti\' i di qucllo chc si m~1nifcsta nci giorni dcl :a famosa "Regatta." J\ l igliaia di barcbc arrc - datc con !usso, popol ate da lcggi~1Jrc Signorinc e Signore clcgantissin,c, nonchC Ja Signori :1bbigli:.it i con scrnplicita, ma non mcno clcg:.mti, gallc~giano su l Tamigi, c fonnano c-.1lla irnmcn sa :iccolta ~Ii pcrsonc chc affolh:ino le ri,·c dcl flume, un quaJ ro piltorcsco c s m:.1gliantc. Tutti gli abiti di qucslo qu:.1Jro sono fotti d i stolTc fabbricatc, tintc e finite in Br:1cHorJ . 24 Les R~gates de Henley. TAB LEAU VI I. 011 11e r,n1t p:1s sc figu re r unc scCnc p lus pittorcsque, un tablea u plus h rill a nt et micux :u.laptC a mo n t rc r lcs modes d'CtC. La T:unisc pu ll ulc de balc:1ux de luxe privCs, pa r tout des dames clCg: 111t cs en c ompagnic de ]curs ca valiers, tous d' une correction et d'un chic irrCprcchabks. Tous lcs costumes dans cc tableau sont confcctionnCs ;wee des tissus fob r iq uCs, tcints et appri:tCs a Bra,lfo rd .
The Shootin!! Paij:y . TABLEAU VI 11. After :1 trying London Sc:ison , j:1dcd Society gbdly rc~ponds to tile cill of the moors in Autumn, and the ladies, joining lhc men for lun ch, \\"Car costumes as carefully devised for t he occasion as the prettiest indoo r gowns . T he fabrics here shown ha,•c all been produced in Bradford. Una Par tita di Ca ccia . QUAORO N. VI II. Dopo :1\Trvissuto di quclla vita picna d i solbzzi c pia cc ri, ma non mcno sncrvantc, chc la "Season" Londincsc procura ai fortunati mortali chc possono pcnncttcrsi tale lusso, l ' alta Socicti1 di Londra, s i rcca in campagna . Nelle riunioni sportive d'autunno, allc caccic , ai "picnic" cd allc co!nzioni :111'.tria aper ta , le Signore sfoggi:rno a biti graziosa• mcntc indossati c di gusto squi1:>ito, non mcno belli di qucll i chc csse vestono ncll' int crno delle loro case. Le sto lTe che s i mostrano in qucsto quadro sono tuttc di fabbricazionc di Br:1dfonl. 26 Une partie de Chasse. TABLEAU V II I. Ap r i::s unc s:1 ison tpuisante le grand mondcdc Londrcsse rend volontic rs aux chasses qui ont lieu en Ecosse et dans d'autres parties de la Gr:mdc Bretagne. Les D:1mes y por tent des cost u ines ad mi rab lcmcnt adaptCs a u Spod. Au rcndcz -,·ous du dCjcCtner ccltc joyeuse compagnie forme un tableau channant. Toutcs Jes <!toffes exposCes sortc n t des f:tbr iques de Br:1dford. i1
"'.J"h~era . TABLEAUX IX. a .~ ~ Durirlg the l .onclon Season here m.ar invariably be .£ccn the most hrilli;m t assembly of ran[;, wc;.il th a nd fashion, :rnd no cxpcm,c is spa red in 1hc display inl!iv idually an d <:ollectivcl) of perfection in the costum1crs :1 rL Here ,again the cn-:.it 1ons of the mo<listc a1c :.i l l m:idc from fabr ics m:mufacturcJ in Bradford . L'Opera . QUADIW '.'/. IX. Durante la stagionc I ondi ncsc ncl Ridolto de\ Tcatro "CO\·cnt G :lrd cn .. si \ 'cdc im·:.iri:1bi l111cntc la pil1 lwill:m tc asscmblca ari s toCl':.ttic:11 ricca cd clcgantc, c ncss una spcs:.i C ris p::mniata in questa mostra individualc c collcttiva dclla pc rfezione dcgli abiti . ...\nchc q ui le c rc:izioni dcllc s:.irtori c s0110 t ulle fattc con s toffe fabbri - catc a l3r:.iJford . A L'Op~ra. TABLEAU IX. Pcncbnl la Saison de Lo11dres (avril-juill et) le fo~ e r de l'Opt:ra du Coven t G:tr,len prCscntc un effet 111:1 g nifiquc, on pourrait l'appeler l'endroi t le plu s chic du monde. Tous les soirs lcs Dames de ]'aristocratic, Jes ministrcs , Jes ambassade urs, brd tout cc qu i constitue la plus be lle socii:t C s'y donnc rendezvous. C'cst touj ours des f:1briqucs de Bradford quc p rov icnnc11t toutcs ccs magnifiques i:t u ffrs. ·'
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Showcases, Me r ce ri sed Cotto n s, H ere :ire shown v:irious types of me rcerised colton goods. The :.id\·cnt of mcrccrisation :md 1hc schrcinc ring process caus ed a cam• plctc rcvolul io n in the cotton tr:idc. 0 1\ ing: to this in recent years :1 grc:.it development has t :d,cn place in the use of matc rbl so treated, and most hc:1utifu l cffccls, equalling sil l, in lustre and :1ppcarancc, :ire rroduccd. All Wool. Thc:.ill-wool tr:1dc in dress goods cm·crs :..i very large Acid. Su m:inr varieties arc made, and i: , s o many form s , that it is imposs ible to do them justrcc in :i sma ll Showcase, the few types shown, however inadcqu;1tc , will cm1blc the visitor to form some slight idea of what is being produced. Artificial Silk. Nothing has been more strifdng in recent years th:111 the progress in Artific ial Silk, and the samples in this Case show that in brilliance a nd beauty the artificial product fully equals the best sill,. Co t o ne Me rcerizzato. Ecco divcrsi tipi di cotonc mcrccrizzato. I metodi irwcntati <la Mercer c Sch reiner hanno caus:1ta una rivoluzionc comp/cta ncl commcrc io dci tcssuti, cd in qucsti ulti1ni :mni si C giunti :id un gr:1ndc pcrfezionamcnto nclla f:1bbricazionc di questi articoli , ii cui consumo C mo lto imporUmte . T cssuti di L a na. 11 commcrcio dcllc l:rncrie non ha limiti. Si f::inno tanti al'ticoli e la varict:i Ji essi C talmcnlc grandcchc riescc impossibilc di rapprcsentarli giusta• rncnte ncllo spazio limitato di u11a vetrina. PcrO i tipi esposti danno una idea gcncrnlc di ciO chc si produce in ques t:1 categoria. S e t a Ar t ificial c . 11 progrcsso cklla mcr:wigliosa industria Jcll:.i s<:La artiflcialc C stato uno Jci pill gr:indi in qu esti ulti1ni :u1ni. C10 chc Ccsposto in qucsl:t , ·etrina dimostra, chc J:il pun to di vista Jcllo splcndore c bcllC'zza, b scta :irtificialt.: vale quanto la ver:i se t:1. 30 Vitrines. Cotons Me rcc ri s;s. Voici divers types de tissus de coton mercerisCs. L'avCnemen t des procCdCs i1wentC:,; par Me rcer et Schreiner a c:iusC unc rCvolutio11 comrlCte dans le commerce des tissus et on est :1rrivC dans Ies derniCrcs annCes :'.1 un gr:1nd perfcc• tionnerncnt dans la production de ecs :irt iclcs, dont la consomma~ ion est trCs import ante. Ti ssus Pure La ine. L e Commerce des lainages C!.t pour ainsi dire sans borncs. II se fait tant d':1rticles, et la variCtC e n est si grandc, qu ' il est tout :\ foit impossible de Jes rcprCscnter d 'une fo~on con- ,·,·nablc dans l'csr.acc li m itC d'unc vitrinc. Cependa n t Jes quc!qucs types exposes donnent une idCe gCnCrale de cc qu'on produit d:ms ccttc catCgoric. S o ie Artific iclle. Le progrCs de la mervc illeusc i11dustrie des soies :irlificicllcs a CtC des plus Cton nan ts ces dern i Cr es :urnCCs. Les spCci me nsdans ccttc vitrine dCmontre nt qu ' au point de vuc du bril - lant et de b hcautC la soie ::trtificiel!c vaut parfaitemen t b vraic soic. ~ - - - - - - - - ~ - - -
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