Dye ing, TAOLEAU VI. Colour effects :i re somct imcsobta incd by the Jycini;: -0f th e woo l or yarn either of t he w:irp or weft, or bo t h , before they :ire wo\·c11. But t he great bul k of b bri r.:s a rc ·woven in t he "grey" (i .c. , 1hc n:itural colour) :111d dyed .after they lca,·c the loom. Here :ire two d, ·cin~ \' csscls -of sma ll size ·such as :.ire used fo r dyeing " pa llc rns" - short lengths of clot h to be sen t out by the me rcha nt :.is sa mples. He re ;dso is ; 1 4 'whu zzcr" (hydro•ci.t ra ctor), in whic h the p ieces .ire pl;i ccd when t he y cmnc \\'Ct fro111 the dye vessels i11 1Jrdcr t hat the w:1tcr m:1y be driven off hr ccntrif ugal force. T he mac hi ne rc\'oh'cs 800 times pe r minute. /11 pra ctical ,,·orl;i11;; t he rn:1 chinc ry used in dyeing .::in d finishing is hC:J\'}' :t nd of g rc:1t s i;,:c- ;dtogctllc r t oo l:.i rgc for exhibition. T he <lrcing a nd fini s hing of goods .co111prise many pron:sscs, v:Jricd according to Ilic resu lt s 1Tquircd to be obt:1i ncd. T he softness of "iland lc," t he bri!li:rncc , the smooth - n ess, or the rc ,·c rsc :H"c all <Joa litics which depend upon these fi ni sh ing processes . Tintoria. QUADllO N. VI. Si ottcngono dcg li cffctl i d i colori divcrsi b ccndo ti n • gcrc, pri ma dclla tcssit ur:1, s ia la lana pctt ina t:11 chc i fil i di ord ito o di t r:una. 1>crO la maggiorp:1rtcdcllc n1crc i sono mcssc a tc laio c r uJt.· , cioC co n la lana al colo rc natu ra lc, c non C c he dopa cssere tollc dal tc laio chc vcngono t intc. No i vcd iamo qul d ue picco li h;1gni di t intura chc si us:i no pe r tingcre ii cam • pion:irio . Una , ·olta ti11te le s to ITc Teinture, T AI3LEAU V I. On olit ient des cffcts de coulc ur nll' iCs en faisant tc 1ndrc, a,·anl le tissage des pil:ccs d'Ctoffe, soit la lai ne pc ignCc , soit lcs f11 s de chaine ou Jc trame. Ccpendant la plupar t des m:1rcha11discs sont miscs au t issagc en Ccru, c 'cst a dire coule ur naturd le de la la inc, et cc n'cst qu':.1prCs leur sortie du mCt ierqu'on lcs fait tcindre . i\ ous :n·ons ici <lcux: pet its ba i11s de tc inturc q u'o n cmploic pour tcincil·e des coupons pour l 'Cc hanti llonvcngono mcssc nel la m:1c - nagc. c hina csposta, chiam;ita Unc fois tcintes, les piC.ces idro-csfr:1ttorc, la c u i fun - d'Cto!T c , encore toutes zionc C di c-stra rrc da1la trcn1pCcs, sont mises da ns sto!fa ll1tt :.i l' acqua in cssa la m:ichinc qu'o11 voi t ic i. contcm1ta, per mezzo dclla C'cst unc "cssoreu~e" dont forza ccnt rifuga. Qucsta la fonctionconsistcii.cnlcvc r m:1c chi11:i ha la , ·cloc it:\ di l' cau des piCces par la fo rce 800J::ir i al minuto . centrifuge , l a m achine In una csposizionc si dis- faisan t 800 rCvulu tions par po11c di u 110 spazio troppo minute. li m it:lto per poterv i monta rc Dans unc c .,posiLion on de llc m:1cchim: per ti ni.:crc / dispose d' un cspacc trap c per :1pprcttarc ncllc loro li mitC pour pouvoir y monter gra ndczzc o rigina li . La ti n- des macl,incs a tcind rc et a t ura c l"apprclt o <lei tcssut i apprCtcr da ns !curs dimc n• esigc dcl prncc ssi dc ll:.1 pill sions ori~i nalcs. gn.1 11 dc va ric t ~1. Si possono La t ci nt urc et l'a pp rCt des :1vc rc, a scconda del mctodo t issus ex igent des prncC<lCs imp icgato, dc llc sto fTc hr i l - de la plus granJe variCtC. bn t i, liscic , soflici , od ii Ains i o n pcu t avoi r, sc ion la contr:irio di t ullo c iO. mi: t hodc qu 'on cmpl oic, des Ctoffcs hr illa ntes, lisscs , et <l'un touchcr soup lc- ou le contrairc de tout ccb . 22
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