Weaving. TABLEAU \·. Th e pr inciple or wca \·inj.! - J; now11 to men o f all cou n • t ri ci- fo r :tgcs- is the s:unc in the mode r n pO\\·cr looms :1s i,11 hccl cmcnta rv an-:1ngc111cnt in which t l~c l{hurd w caYCS hi s r ugs. The w:irp runs the ICl11g \\":\)' of t h<.: piece to he WO\'cn, the t h rc:1Js being \\"{Jlllld on the "hcarn ·· trollcr) :1t the hack of the loom. The purpose of t he loom is to enable the wr.:;1\Tt" 10 cross tl1csc w:1rp ti1n:ads w ith o th er tlin'. atis or yarn c:il lcJ "weft." T his is done h, · c1us i 11g a s huttk contai 11in.g :t bo b bin of weft t o pass hct,,ccn ti n.: warp - Ihn:aJs. ,, h id, :11-c held :1p:1rt - u1a_. part of thc111 hL· ing !ir tcd by ! lie hc:dds. Af tcrthcsliuttlc hasp:.issc d, the posit ion of I he wa r p - I hn:a<ls is reversed the o ne half :ire d1·oppcd ;111J the ot her h:df lifted so th: 11· the s huu1" m :1r p;iss hct\1-cc11 t hem :1g:1i11 , but in the other Ji 1·cc 1ion. As the shut tle fli es to :111d fro t he cloth is s tcaJi ly built u p an d m:alc fi r m and ser vicc:1hlc. \"arictics in dcsig11 .:u1d colou ring :ire ohlainc,I hy the lifting o f Jiffcrcnt warp-thre1ds a nd hy the use of different coloured wef t s. T essitura. QUADRO N. \·. I ,a tcssitura C co nosci ut:t d agli uomin i da scco1 i c la base fo11Jamc11tal<.: de i telai mecc: rnici C 1:t s tcssa d i quc ll a dclla tcssitu ra primitivn. L'ord1to chc r:1ppresc11ta l:i l u ng\iczza desiderata de! t css uto dC\'e cssc rc ;1\·vo!to sul subio ante ri orc de ] tclaio. E' ii t claio c hc pc rmettc :.d tcss itm·e d'intrcccia rc i fili di ord ito COil gli a lt ri delli di trama rncrcC la 11 rrt1c tfa chc raccliiude una hobln:1 per trama. '.\cl momenta in cui i licci sollc1·:1 no una pa r tc del l' o rd ito, b n a\'Ctta vie ne l:m1.: ia1:, :1ttra,·erso i fil i, e ques t :1 opcr:1zione ,·iene r ipc tuta quanJo i lic: c i ::;o!lc - 1·:u10 un'altr:.i rarte del l' or· Jil<). A 111 isura clu: l:.i navctta p:1ssa d:1 un l:i to all'~d t ro, si rorn1:1 ii tcssuto c.:olla solid it::L Pe r :n·cr-c del!c.: vari: 1zioni di discgno c J i colo re si f:wno sollcv:u-e dilkrcnti fi li Ji catena (uJ orJito) inscrcmlo dcllc tramc di di1·c rsi co!ori. Le Ti ssage. TABLEAU \·. Le t issage est connu a ux hommcs dcru is des siCclcs et la base fondamcntalc en est tou jours la mCmc. qu' il s':,gissc de la disposition primi tive d 'u n l(ourdc en tr:lin de tissc r des couvcrturcs au d'un mCticr rnCc:111 - iqu c perfcct ionnC. La chalne qui rcprCscntc la longueur dCsirCc du drap, doit Ct r e enroulCe sur l'cnsouplc dcrriC rc le mclicr. C'cst le mCticr qui pcrmct :1u t issc r:u1d d 'c n trclaccr les Il ls de cha inc- :t\'CC J';1u trcs flls :ippc lCs " t r:m,c" en cmploy:111t l:1 " 11 ;n ·ettc" qu i renf crmc uncbobinc :'1 tramc. Au 111oment all lcs l.11ncs soulC\'cnt unc partie de la c h,1i1 1c la navettc cRt l.i11cCe iL tr:11·crs lcs flls, e t cette opCnttion sc rCpCte lorsquc lcs lames soull-v:cnt unc autrc partic de la cbainc. A mcsure quc la navette passc d ' un cOtC 11 l'autre le ti ssu sc fait, e n prenant la fcrmctCet la solid1tC ,·oulucs. Pour prod u irc des ,·ar i:.itions de <lcssins et de coulcur on fait sou lcve r d ilTCl"e nts fils d e cb ainc, en y i11sCranl de l:t tr:imc dc divcrscscoulellrS.
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